Staining Wooden Decks. Of all the structures in the world, the traditional wooden deck may well be my favorite. I love the feel of solid-wood deck boards under my feet. I love the look of the planks spaced evenly apart and dotted with nails or screws in row after row after row. I even love the way a real wooden deck weathers over time.
Nothing else can match the character and patina of a wooden deck worn down in just the right places from years of wonderful outdoor living. But with all that solid-wood awesomeness comes the requisite care and maintenance. Unlike some alternatives, such as concrete, brick pavers, or synthetic deck boards, a real wooden deck requires a little bit of love from time to time. One of the most important maintenance choices you can make for your deck is whether to apply a finish coat of some sort and if so, what to use.
Should you stain it? Should you just leave it au naturel?
Let’s go over the pros and cons of each. Leaving the Wood Unfinished Depending on the type of wood you build your deck out of and where you live, leaving the deck completely unfinished could be an option.
But for most people, it’s not the best choice because the elements eventually wreak havoc on even the toughest of woods. With the exception of some extremely hard tropical hardwoods, you should almost always apply some sort of finish to your deck if you want it to last outside.
Skipping the finish coat will usually lead to the wood cracking, splitting, warping, and even rotting before it should, requiring lots of time and money to make repairs. Finishing Your Deck with Paint Painting your wood deck can be a great choice. Paint has quite a few benefits over the other finish options such as stain or sealer, but it may not be for you if you want a natural looking wood deck. Here are the pros and cons of painting your outside deck:. Painting allows you to use any color you want. Because paint is solid, you can completely cover an old color or the wood itself, which means your options are wide open.
Paint often fills gaps and cracks. Paint is a thicker finish, so it can often be useful for repairing wood that has already damaged a little by the elements. Some paints are even made just for that purpose. Paint might be easier to clean. Depending on the color (I have a white painted deck and it is NOT easy to clean), paint can be easy to clean. If the paint is of good quality and is allowed to cure properly before put into use, it creates a hard shell that dirt usually just washes right off of. Paint is more protective of wood.
Generally speaking, paint resists rot, mold, and sun damage better than other options. However, other types of high-quality finishes can also do a great job of protecting wood. Cons of Paint:. Paint is forever.
Once you decide to paint your wood deck, you’ve pretty much decided to always paint your wood deck. While you can go from stain or sealer to paint, you can’t really go back the other way without going to extreme measures. Paint is available in any color. While this is also in the “pros” list, it can be a challenge. What looks good on walls and trim doesn’t always look good on a huge surface like a deck. Floor paints used to be limited in color options, but not anymore.
More choices means more chances that you’ll be sorry!. Paint can be slippery when wet. Depending on the sheen of your paint (gloss, semi-gloss, etc.), painted decks are sometimes as slick as ice when wet. Paint hides the natural beauty of wood.
The biggest drawback is probably that paint hides the wood grain, thereby erasing one of the biggest upside features of a real wood deck. The alternative to paint is stain or sealer.
Let’s take a look at those. Staining Your Wood Deck If you decide paint is not for you, you’ll probably look at either semi-transparent stains or a clear sealer for your deck. This category is very broad, encompassing many different types of finish material, but we can still look at a few of the more general pros and cons. Pros of Stain. Stain retains the natural beauty of wood.
Stain and sealer let the wood grain show through. Stain is less slippery. This is a generality, and some stains can be slick, but for the most part, stains are more of a flat surface that protect the wood without creating a very slippery surface. Stain is easier to apply. Stain and sealer are more forgiving.
You can miss a spot here and there without it becoming obvious. Paint isn’t as easy to work with. Stain comes in many colors.
You still have design options with stain, which is available in a large variety of colors. Always test an area with your particular wood, though, because the color of the wood itself will have a big effect on the finished color of the stain. Cons of Stain. Stain has a shorter life span than paint.
It may not last as long, depending on quality and coats. Stain doesn’t fill cracks. It is generally much thinner; therefore, it can’t be used as a repair material to fill cracks, voids, and splinters. Stain is more “rustic” looking. For the most part, stain results in a more natural looking finish.
So the “pro” that says you can see the grain can also be a “con” if you don’t want to see it. If you want a solid color with very little variation, stain may not be for you. However, darker color stains can be fairly uniform in appearance. Both Options Offer Protection Both paint and stain can give you a deck that lasts years longer than it would if left untreated. These materials make the wood less water absorbent, causing the wood to stay dry on the inside.
They also include compounds designed to protect the wood from harmful UV rays, which means less of the awful sun damage that can ruin exposed wood decks. In the end, the little bit of effort required to maintain a wood deck can be well worth it. After all, wood is a natural, renewable resource, and some of the faster growing species, such as Southern Yellow Pine, are very environmentally friendly compared to synthetic materials.
Wood is also beautiful, easier to work with, and easier on the wallet. But like I said in the opening line, I’m a serious wood deck lover! Maybe I’m biased. That’s okay, everybody has a favorite material. Mine is wood; what’s yours?
It is very important that this is a two-part job: Part 1 is how to Clean a Timber Deck, while Part 2 explains how to stain the deck. You must clean the deck before staining. You will need the following;. Eye protection. Rubber Gloves. Paint Scraper.
Painting Cracks Between Deck Boards
Stiff Bristled Brush (plastic bristles). Plastic Drop cloths (to protect plants). Push Broom. Deck Cleaner. Penetrating Oil Stain or Deck Sealer. Water based stains should be avoided UNLESS you have to walk on the.
Deck within a couple of hours. You should do an annual inspection on your deck looking for any loose boards or other structural components and look for rotting wood. Tell tale signs of rotting wood include discoloration, mould and softness when pressed with a hard object such as a screwdriver. If any soft wood or dry rot is discovered, replace the piece. (See How to Replace Rotted Boards following this article) The first step is to prepare the wood surfaces by removing loose surface finishes and paint. Using a sharp paint scraper remove any loose solid stain, paint or finish. What does not come off by scraping will have to be removed by hand sanding.
For sealed film finishes such as varnish or paint, you will need to strip this off with a chemical stripper. Sanding would be a better option. This is however a fairly difficult task and is probably better left to the experts. Make sure you have on your rubber gloves and eye protection when using a chemical stripper.
Apply the chemical stripper according to directions. Usually you will apply it in smaller sections and wait for it to work, and then scrape the loosened finish away from the wood. For stubborn areas, you may have to apply the stripper a second time. You can also get in tight corners by using a putty knife. Rinse the stripper away as required by the instructions.
If the deck is simply weathered and only needs Cleaning follow the steps below. Once the wood is scraped and stripped if necessary, the next step is to apply the deck cleaner. There are a few types of deck cleaners or deck restorers on the market. They typically fall into three main types of cleaning base categories Oxygen Bleach cleaners, This is effective in removing mildew stains and greying caused by ultra-violet sun exposure on the wood and effective in cleaning the wood of dirt and deposits. The wood returns to its original colour after cleaning with this type of cleaner. Oxalic Acid Based cleaners do nothing for removing mildew stains but are effective for removing tannin stains.
Tannins are natural occurring water-soluble resins of a reddish brown colour found in wood such as redwood, cedar and oak. Usually this type of cleaner is used as a supplement to Oxygen Bleach cleaners if tannin staining is a problem. Your Hardware store has Timber Deck Cleaning products, ask for their advice. Protect your shrubs and plants with a plastic drop cloth. It is also a good idea to hose down the surrounding area with water to immediately dilute any deck cleaner over spray.
If you splash the Cleaner onto paintwork, it WILL stain it. Wet the Paintwork 1 st Mix the deck cleaner according to directions and put on eye protection and rubber gloves. Spray or Broom the deck cleaner onto the deck. Do not try to cover the entire deck surface at one time. You will want to work in sections and let the deck cleaner do its work.
Let the cleaner set for a period of time as recommended by the manufacturer, usually between 10 and 20 minutes. Once it has been working for the specified time, use a hard bristled broom and scrub the deck clean. Please note that if you leave any stains they will be visible later. It will probably be impossible to get the deck 100% clean. Just do the best you can.
Sanding is the only option if the Deck will not come clean enough for what you expect. Work with the wood grain, not against it. Rinse with water scrub to remove any remnants of Cleaner. Repeat the process on the next section of deck. Allow the deck to dry for about 2 days before applying the Protective coating.
Select a penetrating clear or tinted sealer or solid colour stain, as you desire. Buy a clear or semi-transparent stain if you want the grain of the wood to show through. Buy a solid stain if you want the finish to look like paint. Do not use paint. Make sure the stain or sealer is “Water Repellent” I prefer a Tinted Transparent Stain, IE. This will help even out any colour differences due to aging or stained spots. DO NOT: Use clear finishes such as polyurethane or varnish as they will degrade under the sun’s UV rays.
Using a Lambs wool Applicator and a Roller Tray for the stain. Apply the sealer or stain. The wood may be very porous at this point and may absorb the sealer or stain quickly.
Two or three coats will allow the Stain to build up. Do not apply too much at one application. For railings, balusters and in between deck boards a Lambs Wool Applicator may not work so use a brush if required. Let dry as per the Instructions on the can.
Try to apply one coat of Stain at least once a year and all you will need to do is wash the deck with a household cleaner and apply the stain. Then you will keep the deck looking good for much longer. How to Replace a Deck Plank Locate the damaged section between one or two joists, whichever will make the cut look more natural. With a framing square as an edge guide for the jigsaw cut the damaged section of plank out alongside the inside edge of one of the joists. Repeat the process and cut the other edge of the damaged plank again alongside the inside edge of a joist. Remove the damaged section of deck board.
With the damaged plank removed, you now need to install supports at either end of the opening for the new deck board. Cut two (2) 300mm (12″) long sections of 50mmx100mm (2”x4”) support blocks. Take one of the 300mm (12″) support blocks and place it centered under the opening alongside one of the joists and pulled hard to the underside of the deck boards. Nail the support block to the joist face with two (2) 65mm (3″) spiral shank galvanized nails. Repeat this process for the other end of the opening, fastening the second support block to the other joist face in the same manner. With the support blocks in place, it is time to install the new plank.
Cut the new deck plank to length, making sure to make a square cut on each end. Note the end grain pattern of the replacement plank and orient the end grain rings so that they curve upward. This will help prevent cupping as the plank weathers. If the decking is not cedar, redwood or pressure treated lumber; it will need to be treated with a preservative. Do this before installing the plank. Drill pilot holes through the new plank into the support structure below and fasten with 65mm (3″) galvanized (Stainless Steel) decking nails or deck screws. If you drill first the timber will not split!
If replacing full lengths of board you can use the existing sub structure to support the boards without needing to install new supports. Enjoy that timber deck! Handy Hint – How to Clean & Stain a Timber Deck was provided by the Maroochydore Handyman. If the job looks a bit tough, do not hesitate to. HAVE YOU CHECKED YOUR SMOKE ALARM BATTERY?. Check your Gutter for leaves and other debris. Walk around your property and look for Termite tunnels.
(dirt/earth stuck where it shoudn't be that termites use to get into the timber in your house). Look for damp areas, mould, anything that doesn't look right. Check decks, pergolas,any exterior structures. Make sure the metal fittings are not starting to rust. Check if the structure is securely fixed to the house. Check exterior steps for rot or other damage. Early detection of problems can save you thousands.
Check inside too. Look in the back of wardrobes, especially if a wall ajoins a bathroom or laundry.
Mould or damp areas anywhere are potential problems. Lastly, get up in the roofspace through the manhole with a torch.
Only stand on the bottom stringer of the roof trusses. Do not stand on the battens the gyprock is attached to. Check for anything that shouldn't be there. Maybe set off a few Roach bombs up there. Call me if you need a hand.